Bandit by Robert Piguet c1944

Launched in 1942 in France and reaching the USA by 1944, Bandit by Robert Piguet was a fragrance that captured the bold essence of its name. The term "Bandit," derived from the French word for "thief" or "outlaw," evokes images of a daring, adventurous spirit. The word conjures a sense of rebellion and audacity, suggesting an aura of intrigue and mystique. In the context of a fragrance, "Bandit" implies a scent that is both provocative and unconventional, designed to make a statement of independence and sophistication.

The choice of name reflects a period of profound transformation and resilience. During the early 1940s, amidst the backdrop of World War II, a fragrance like Bandit symbolized a break from traditional norms, embodying a daring elegance that was both rebellious and refined. Germaine Cellier, the visionary behind this scent, crafted a perfume that was a striking departure from the more delicate and demure fragrances of the time. Bandit presents a dry, herbaceous top note that immediately strikes with a bold freshness, suggesting an audacious spirit ready to challenge convention. This top layer unfolds with an invigorating blend of aromatic herbs, imparting a crisp and invigorating quality that commands attention.

As Bandit evolves, its heart reveals a dry floral blend that is both sophisticated and assertive. The scent of jasmine, known for its opulent and sensual qualities, intertwines with a subtly spicy carnation, creating a bouquet that is as bold as it is elegant. The floral heart of Bandit is not overtly sweet or feminine but rather dry and understated, aligning with the perfume’s rebellious character.

The base of Bandit rests on a warm, leathery, and mossy foundation that is both deep and resonant. The rich, tactile aroma of leather exudes a sense of rugged elegance, complemented by the earthy, green notes of moss. This combination of leather and moss adds a layer of complexity and depth, creating a scent that is at once provocative and comforting. The woodiness of the base notes further enhances the fragrance’s enduring appeal, making it a bold statement of confidence and style.

In the context of its time, Bandit stood apart from other fragrances on the market with its audacious blend of aromatic floral and leather notes. It was a fragrance that resonated with women seeking to express their individuality and strength in a period marked by significant change. By combining the rugged allure of leather with the delicate sophistication of jasmine and the earthy depth of moss, Bandit offered a unique olfactory experience that was both pioneering and timeless.

The Launch:

The introduction of Bandit by Robert Piguet was as audacious as the fragrance itself. In a bold and theatrical move, Piguet chose to unveil his androgynous perfume at a fashion show where models were dressed as rebellious bank robbers, complete with faux pistols. This was not merely a gimmick for the runway but an integral part of the fragrance’s dramatic launch.

In a memorable spectacle, the models proceeded to smash bottles of Bandit on the floor, deliberately breaking them to release the perfume's essence into the air. This act was not just an act of rebellion but a powerful sensory experience, as the room became saturated with the fragrance's enigmatic scent. The choice to destroy the bottles rather than present them in a traditional manner created a potent, lingering olfactory impression, forcing the attendees to confront and engage with the perfume in a visceral, unforgettable way.

This stunt echoes a similar promotional tactic used by François Coty, who, in a bid to attract attention to his Coeur de Jeanette perfume, dropped a bottle in the Galeries Lafayette. Just as Coty’s dramatic gesture spurred curiosity and heightened interest in his fragrance, Piguet’s bold presentation of Bandit generated intrigue and excitement. By creating an event that combined fashion, performance, and the immediate release of the perfume, Piguet ensured that Bandit would be remembered not just as a scent, but as an experience—capturing the imagination and interest of those who witnessed its unconventional debut.

Femme, 1946:

"Robert Piguet's "Bandit", a recent creation, has the disturbing, dangerous and fanciful side of its name. It doesn't look like any other. But it is still Parisian and therefore irresistible."

Between 1945 and 1947, Robert Piguet's Bandit was marketed in the USA under the name Brigand. This name change was likely influenced by a combination of factors, including sensitivities surrounding the aftermath of World War II and potential copyright issues. The term "Bandit," which carries connotations of daring and defiance, may have been deemed too provocative or potentially controversial in a post-war context where sensitivities were heightened.

To clarify the relationship between the two names, some packaging from this period includes a specific label stating, "Brigand in the US is in every respect identical with that known as BANDIT in the rest of the world." This labeling aimed to reassure customers that despite the change in name, the fragrance itself remained unchanged. The message underscores the consistency of the product, ensuring that the American market received the same distinguished scent as its international counterparts.

The name "Brigand" itself, though similar in meaning to "Bandit," may have been chosen to better align with the cultural and legal climate of the time. "Brigand" also means "robber" or "bandit," but with a slightly less edgy connotation, which might have been more acceptable or less likely to provoke controversy in the post-war American market.

This period of renaming reflects the complexities of branding and market sensitivity in a time of global recovery and transition. Despite the name change, Brigand maintained the essence of Bandit, continuing to embody the bold, aromatic floral leather chypre fragrance that had been initially crafted by Germaine Cellier. The consistent quality of the fragrance ensured that it remained a compelling and sophisticated choice for American consumers, even under its new name.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aromatic floral leather chypre fragrance for women. It starts with a dry, fresh herbaceous top, followed by a dry floral heart, resting on a warm, leathery, mossy base. A potpourri of jasmine, leather and wood topped with carnation.

• Top notes: armoise, lemon, citron, gardenia, galbanum, artemisia, bay leaf, bergamot, aldehydes, marigold
• Middle notes: thyme, nutmeg, rose, pepper, orris, wild carnation, Tunisian orange blossom, Grasse jasmine, spices, ylang ylang
• Base notes: aloeswood, frankincense, teak, tobacco, Tibetan musk, leather, sandalwood, vetiver, ambergris, patchouli, myrrh, castoreum, oakmoss, Ethiopian civet

 

Brigand, also known as Bandit, was meticulously crafted by Germaine Cellier to embody a heavy, sophisticated scent that was ideally suited for evening wear. This perfume, with its rich and assertive character, was particularly designed to complement brunettes, aligning with the dark, luxurious notes that defined its essence.

Cellier's approach to Brigand was audacious and innovative. She incorporated an overdose of 1% isobutyl quinoline, a compound that imparts a potent animalic edge. This bold inclusion created an intensely leather-like, amber, and tobacco note that is both striking and commanding. The isobutyl quinoline adds a gritty, almost primal quality to the fragrance, enhancing its depth and complexity.

In addition to this, Cellier used styrallyl acetate at a 2% concentration, which played a crucial role in the fragrance's gardenia complex. This ingredient, combined with undecylenic aldehyde, contributed to a fully developed, opulent gardenia note. The result is a lush, floral heart that remains rich and robust throughout the fragrance's wear. This combination of ingredients ensured that Brigand was not only sophisticated but also deeply memorable, evoking a sense of mystery and allure that was perfect for evening occasions.

Combat, 1954:

"Eau de Bandit by Robert Piguet: Two dominants: moss and leather, spiced up by an unrepentant musk and a lively note of vetiver. Diluting the eau de cologne in no way deprives this perfume of its vigor, but acclimatizes it to the "summer.. This 'bandit' is a seducer. He has the eyes of a veteran and a hand of velvet. Golden like a citron, he has pepper, thyme, nutmeg and bay leaf in his boots, but he holds between his teeth a few jasmine flowers, well planted on the sunny morning which chirps around. A 'bandit' of love."

Combat, 1955:

"Bandit (perfumed cologne) by Robert Piguet - Diluted for the summer, we find the carnal and vigorous aroma, where the impertinent musk thickens the leather and the jasmine, letting express the lively vetiver, the bitter citron and fresh, binding thyme and spicy nutmeg. Bandit?...Maybe. Well on the adventure. A love bandit."

L'Art et la Mode, 1967:

"For man and woman united in the same style, there's Bandit by Robert Piguet, the great of adventure who stars now. The Bandit parfum for women, The toilet water for man (or both). Fawn-like, original, racy; this fragrance, sensual is unique among a hundred components, leather notes, jasmine, woods dominate, with a wild carnation top; heady cocktail. In a very different but no less attractive rating, also recall Cravache by Robert Piguet."

Scent Profile:

 The original vintage version of Bandit by Robert Piguet unfolds with an intricate and bold complexity. As you encounter the top notes, you are immediately struck by a distinctive herbaceous freshness. The armoise, with its aromatic green notes, melds seamlessly with the sharp zest of lemon and the crispness of citron. 

This invigorating start is enhanced by the subtle bitterness of gardenia and the rich, resinous quality of galbanum. Artemisia and bay leaf add an herbal, slightly smoky nuance, while bergamot introduces a bright, citrusy sparkle. Aldehydes contribute a clean, soapy freshness, and marigold adds a hint of warm, honeyed floral sweetness. The top notes create a vibrant, fresh introduction that sets the stage for the fragrance's deeper layers.

As the scent evolves, the heart reveals a sophisticated and dry floral bouquet. Thyme and nutmeg infuse the fragrance with aromatic warmth and spiciness, weaving through the heart with a subtle complexity. Rose and pepper enhance this blend, offering a rich floral note with a touch of fiery intensity. Orris adds a creamy, powdery nuance, while wild carnation introduces a spicy, floral edge. 

Tunisian orange blossom and Grasse jasmine infuse the heart with their luxurious, heady sweetness, complemented by an array of spices and ylang-ylang's exotic floral richness. This heart is both elegant and multifaceted, combining floral, spicy, and herbal elements in a masterful balance.

The base notes of Bandit are where the fragrance truly deepens and unfolds. The warm, resinous scent of aloeswood and frankincense mingles with the rich, smoky character of teak and the subtle sweetness of tobacco. Tibetan musk, leather, and sandalwood create a deep, sensual core, while vetiver adds an earthy, woody undertone. 

Ambergris contributes a warm, marine richness, and patchouli imparts an earthy, woody depth. Myrrh and castoreum add a slightly animalic, resinous complexity, while oakmoss grounds the fragrance with its classic, earthy mossiness. Ethiopian civet adds a provocative, musky nuance, completing the base with a rich, complex finish. The base notes create a deep, warm, and sensual foundation, leaving a lasting, enigmatic impression.

Bottles:

The crystal parfum bottles crafted by Pochet et du Courval in France exemplify elegance and sophistication through their meticulous design and varied sizes.

The smallest, a 1/8 oz purse-sized mini, is a delicate gem designed for portability. This compact bottle fits effortlessly into a handbag, making it a convenient choice for fragrance touch-ups on the go. Its petite stature belies its exquisite craftsmanship, capturing the essence of luxury in a tiny package.

Next, the 1/4 oz bottle stands at 2.25 inches tall, offering a slightly larger option while maintaining a refined silhouette. This size is ideal for those who prefer a more substantial yet still discreet fragrance container, perfect for occasional use or as a collectible.

The 1/2 oz bottle, standing 2.5 inches tall, strikes a balance between elegance and practicality. Its modest height ensures it remains easy to handle, while its design reflects the same attention to detail and artistry found in larger bottles.

The 1 oz bottle, measuring 3 3/8 inches tall, provides a more generous supply of perfume. This size is well-suited for those who enjoy a favorite fragrance regularly, allowing for ample use without compromising on the bottle's aesthetic appeal.

For those who desire a more substantial presence, the 2 oz bottle stands 4.25 inches tall. Its larger size is a statement piece, offering a significant quantity of fragrance while showcasing the intricate craftsmanship of Pochet et du Courval.

Additionally, the 4 oz and 8 oz bottles cater to the most discerning collectors and fragrance enthusiasts. While their exact dimensions are not specified, these bottles embody the pinnacle of luxury, combining ample capacity with the same refined elegance characteristic of the entire line. Each size reflects a commitment to quality and design, enhancing the experience of enjoying fine perfume.

Graphis, 1947:

"ROBERT PIGUET : Visa & Bandit. - Bottle in pressed glass capsule in gilt metal; label in yellow embossing; box covered with imitation tartan ; outside packing in yellow paper with postmarks and cellophane jacket."

Fate of the Fragrance:

In the 1950s, the Robert Piguet fragrance line was under the ownership and distribution of the John Robert Powers Products Company. During this period, both the John Robert Powers and Robert Piguet names were prominently displayed on bottles and packaging, reflecting the company's dual role in the perfume's branding and distribution.

By 1960, Jacqueline Cochran took over as the distributor for Robert Piguet perfumes in the United States. The shift in distribution was marked by a change in branding, with bottles and boxes now featuring the name "Robert Piguet Parfums." This designation remained in use until approximately 1982, signifying a period of consistency in the brand's presentation in the American market.

From 1982 to 1995, the ownership of Robert Piguet fragrances transitioned to Alfin, known as Irwin Alfin/Adrien Arpel, Inc. In 1985, Alfin established a subsidiary, Orinter Geneva Switzerland, specifically to manage the Parfums Robert Piguet portfolio. This subsidiary held exclusive global rights for manufacturing, distribution, and licensing of iconic fragrances such as Fracas, Bandit, Cravache, Baghari, and Musk Blanc. During this era, the company undertook mass marketing initiatives to increase the reach of Robert Piguet's perfumes. However, it was also during this time that the fragrances were reformulated, a move that unfortunately did not meet with favorable reviews from enthusiasts and critics alike.

1999 Version:

The landscape shifted again in 1995 when Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics, Ltd. (FF&C) acquired the Robert Piguet brand. This acquisition led to a revival of several of the original classics and the introduction of new creations. Notably, Bandit, a hallmark fragrance of the Robert Piguet line, was reformulated by Aurelien Guichard to more closely resemble the original feminine version. This updated formulation was relaunched in 1999 and is the version currently available on the Robert Piguet Parfums website, reflecting a return to the brand's cherished roots.

From Robert Piguet:

"Provocative and sultry, this chypre fragrance is an intense blend."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does the reformulation smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: neroli, orange essence, ylang ylang, artemisia, galbanum and bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, tuberose, orris, rose, carnation and leather
• Base notes: mousse de chene, castoreum, patchouli, vetiver, myrrh and musk

Scent Profile:

Bandit opens with an audacious burst of top notes that immediately command attention. Imagine the brisk, citrusy tang of neroli, its bright and slightly sweet scent dancing with the sharp freshness of orange essence. This initial effervescence is tempered by the lush, creamy undertones of ylang ylang, whose exotic, floral richness adds a deep sensuality. 

Intermingling with these is the crisp, green freshness of artemisia, its herbal bite evoking the coolness of a dewy meadow. Galbanum introduces an earthy, resinous note, providing a unique, slightly woody contrast to the zesty citrus. Finally, bergamot rounds out the top notes with its signature citrus aroma, infusing the fragrance with a sophisticated, slightly spicy sweetness that lingers enticingly.

As the scent evolves, the heart reveals a complex, opulent blend of florals and leather. The delicate, velvety aroma of jasmine unfolds, its rich and heady scent weaving seamlessly with the creamy, intoxicating notes of tuberose. Orris adds a luxurious, powdery softness, its nuanced sweetness deepened by the rich, velvety texture of rose. 

Carnation contributes a spicy, clove-like warmth, enhancing the floral bouquet. Intertwined with these blooms is a distinct, bold leather note, its rugged, animalistic quality contrasting beautifully with the surrounding florals, adding an element of daring sophistication.

In the base, Bandit settles into a warm, deep, and earthy foundation. Mousse de chêne, or oakmoss, envelops the fragrance with its rich, woody, and slightly damp scent, evoking the mystery of a dense forest floor. Castoreum introduces a potent, animalic note, adding a layer of complexity with its leather-like richness. 

Patchouli and vetiver combine to create a grounding, earthy base, their musky, woody nuances deepening the fragrance. Myrrh adds a resinous, slightly smoky sweetness, complementing the overall warmth. Musk weaves through these notes, enhancing the fragrance's sensuality with its soft, enveloping aroma, making Bandit a captivating and enduring scent.