Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Baghari by Robert Piguet c1950

Baghari, launched by Robert Piguet in 1950, carries a name evocative of distant lands and exotic locales. The name "Baghari" refers to the small North African village of Baghara (also known as Baqqara), a place steeped in the mystique and allure of the desert. This choice reflects Piguet’s fascination with the romanticism and intrigue of North Africa, evoking images of sun-drenched landscapes, ancient sands, and a sense of timeless elegance.

The word "Baghari" conjures visions of an exotic journey, filled with the warmth of the sun and the whisper of cool desert breezes. It hints at a world of opulence and mystery, a sentiment that is intricately woven into the scent itself. The fragrance opens with a burst of aldehydes, which lend a fresh, almost effervescent quality, combined with bright citrus zests that add a vibrant, invigorating touch. This fresh and lively introduction quickly transitions to the heart of the fragrance, which reveals a classic and elegant floral bouquet.

In the middle notes, Baghari unfolds a rich tapestry of gardenia, rose, jasmine, iris, lilac, and wild lily of the valley. Each of these floral notes contributes to a sophisticated and complex heart. The gardenia offers a creamy, velvety softness, while the rose adds depth with its lush, romantic aroma. Jasmine and iris infuse the scent with their heady, refined qualities, and lilac and lily of the valley provide a touch of delicate sweetness. This opulent floral heart is a nod to the luxurious and timeless nature of early 1950s perfumery, when elegance and refinement were highly prized.

The base of Baghari is a warm, powdery blend that envelops the wearer in a comforting, sensual embrace. Ambergris lends a rich, resinous sweetness that is both exotic and deeply alluring. Musk adds a subtle animalic warmth, while vetiver and blond tobacco provide a nuanced, smoky complexity. Moss rounds out the base with an earthy, grounded finish. This combination of notes creates a scent that is both sophisticated and enduring, aligning with the rich oriental fragrances popular in the mid-20th century.

Baghari was released at a time when perfumery was exploring both new and classic elements. Its blend of fresh aldehydic top notes with a luxurious floral heart and a warm, resinous base made it distinctive yet harmonious with the trends of its era. It appealed to women seeking a fragrance that embodied both exotic allure and refined elegance, reflecting the glamour and sophistication of the post-war period.



Sipario - Issues 392-403, 1979:
"Too bad to gloss over, but on the"ra"of Bussottiano"rare" this time becoming  "ri"de "rarity" in the title perhaps following the phonetic inspiration of Jean Piguet, owner of  Robert Piguet, modes et parfums, Paris "which in 1951 he explained to me by letter that the Baghari perfume resembled a "petit village du Nord-Afrique, tout gai" (without ypsilon) called Baghara, but made even more "gai" by the "ri" of "rire"..."


In a 1979 issue of Sipario (Issues 392-403), an intriguing note surfaces regarding the naming of Robert Piguet's Baghari. The article playfully addresses the phonetic play behind the name, suggesting a nuanced interpretation of the word. According to a letter from 1951 by Jean Piguet, the founder of Robert Piguet, the name Baghari was inspired by the North African village of Baghara, which Piguet described as a "petit village du Nord-Afrique, tout gai"—a small, cheerful village.

The article points out that in naming the perfume, Piguet perhaps played with the phonetics of the word, drawing a connection between "Baghari" and "ri" in "rire" (to laugh), thereby imbuing the fragrance with an added layer of gaiety or joy. This phonetic twist seems to enhance the sense of light-heartedness and playfulness associated with the fragrance, aligning with the perfume’s rich, yet vibrant character.

The reference underscores the playful and creative spirit behind Piguet's branding decisions, reflecting his intent to convey not just the essence of a place but an emotional experience through scent. The name Baghari thus encapsulates both the charm of an exotic locale and a touch of whimsical delight, aligning with Piguet’s vision of creating perfumes that evoke vivid imagery and emotions.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a rich oriental fragrance for women. It starts with a fresh aldehydic top spiked with citrus zests, followed by a classic elegant floral heart of gardenia, rose, jasmine, iris, lilac, wild lily of the valley, resting on a sweet, powdery, warm base of ambergris, musk, vetiver, blond tobacco and moss.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, clary sage, Italian bergamot, Portuguese orange, Tunisian orange blossom, lemon, Egyptian geranium
  • Middle notes: iris, carnation, Chinese gardenia, rose, tuberose, lilac, clove, Burmese ylang ylang, hay, lily of the valley, Grasse jasmine, Italian orris
  • Base notes: blond tobacco, sandalwood, Indian vetiver, costus, benzoin, Tibetan musk, vanilla, Ethiopian civet, ambergris, castoreum, European oakmoss

Vintage Baghari stands out for its profoundly sensual quality, largely attributed to its base formula known as Animalis. Developed by Synarome, Animalis is a complex blend designed to impart a rich, animalistic depth to fragrances. This base formula combines the potent essences of civet, musk, ambergris, castoreum, and the costus plant, each contributing to its unique olfactory profile.

Civet, with its intense and musky aroma, lends an exotic, primal edge to the composition. Musk provides a warm, sensual foundation that enhances the perfume's depth and longevity. Ambergris introduces a subtle sweetness and complexity, while castoreum adds a leathery, animalic nuance. Costus, known for its fatty, almost buttery undertones, further enriches the blend, giving it a luxurious, creamy texture.

When used in perfumery, Animalis creates a distinct, almost voluptuous aura that not only extends the wear of the fragrance but also imbues it with a sexual allure. This distinctive effect is evident in Baghari, where the base formula's impact is felt as a deeply sensual and enduring scent profile. Jean Carles, known for his mastery in creating evocative and memorable fragrances, utilized Animalis in other Robert Piguet creations, such as Visa and Futur. In each case, the formula's rich, animalic undertones contribute to a sophisticated, seductive quality, making these perfumes stand out for their compelling and enduring appeal.


Femme, 1950:
"We know that Robert Piguet ceased to be a Couturier; but he remains a perfumer more than ever. His latest perfume Baghari is a magician. Under his wing, a marvelous garden is taking shape; we glimpse flowers, fountains, mossy paths, luminous clearings, birds too - whose chirping is captivating... In short, a garden from the Arabian Nights where it would be delicious to get lost while lingering there."


Combat, 1955:
"Baghari by Robert Piguet - fresh fragrance. Summer fragrance. Bergamot, orange from Portugal and clary sage open to the extract, like eau de cologne which dilutes it, a whimsical garden located outside of time and the flagrance of lilac and lily of the valley in April, carnation and rose in June, summer tuberose, meets that of gardenia from China, ylang ylang from Burma, Indian vetiver and moss from Europe. Garden of Armide."

Scent Profile:


Baghari unfolds as a rich oriental fragrance for women, starting with an invigorating burst of top notes that dance with freshness and complexity. The aldehydes open the scent with a bright, soapy clarity, creating a sparkling initial impression that’s both crisp and clean. 

Intertwined with this is the invigorating zest of Italian bergamot and Portuguese orange, their citrusy brightness accentuated by the sharp, aromatic notes of clary sage. The addition of Tunisian orange blossom adds a delicate floral nuance, while the subtle tang of lemon and the earthy green of Egyptian geranium provide depth and contrast.

As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals a lush, elegant floral bouquet. The iris stands out with its rich, powdery quality, offering a velvety smoothness that blends seamlessly with the opulent, creamy notes of Chinese gardenia. 

The rose contributes a timeless romance with its deep, intoxicating petals, while tuberose adds a heady, almost tropical richness. Lilac and clove introduce a sweet, spicy warmth, further enriched by the complex, honeyed undertones of Burmese ylang ylang. Hay lends a touch of rustic earthiness, while lily of the valley and Grasse jasmine bring a fresh, green brightness, all harmonizing with the deep, rooty notes of Italian orris.

The base notes anchor the fragrance with a warm, sensual foundation. Blond tobacco introduces a smooth, slightly sweet smokiness that melds beautifully with the creamy, rich character of sandalwood. Indian vetiver adds an earthy, woody depth, while costus brings a unique, fatty nuance that enhances the scent's complexity. 

Benzoin and vanilla contribute a soft, resinous sweetness, enveloping the wearer in a comforting embrace. Ethiopian civet, ambergris, and castoreum infuse the composition with a potent animalic richness, creating a captivating, sensual aura. European oakmoss adds a touch of earthy depth, completing the fragrance with a final layer of enduring sophistication and warmth.

Bottles:


The crystal parfum bottles for Baghari by Robert Piguet, crafted by Pochet et du Courval in France, represent a timeless elegance in fragrance packaging. Each bottle, meticulously designed, reflects the luxurious essence of the perfume within.

The 1/8 oz purse-size mini is a petite gem, perfectly designed to be carried in a small clutch or handbag. Its delicate form is a testament to the craftsmanship of Pochet et du Courval, capturing the essence of sophistication in a compact size.

The 1/4 oz bottle, standing at 2.25 inches tall, presents a slightly more substantial presence while maintaining its elegant simplicity. This size strikes a balance between portability and practicality, offering a touch of luxury that's easy to keep on hand.

The 1/2 oz bottle stands at 2.5 inches tall, offering a refined, medium-sized option for those who desire a bit more of the exquisite Baghari fragrance. Its slightly larger size makes it a versatile choice, suitable for both daily use and special occasions.

The 1 oz bottle measures 3 3/8 inches tall, providing a generous quantity of perfume while still retaining the graceful proportions of its smaller counterparts. This size is ideal for those who wish to enjoy the full experience of Baghari more frequently, without sacrificing elegance.

The 2 oz bottle, at 4.25 inches tall, embodies a more substantial luxury, offering ample perfume while showcasing a commanding presence. Its size is perfect for those who wish to indulge in the richness of Baghari while enjoying a beautifully crafted vessel.

For those seeking even more opulence, the 4 oz and 8 oz bottles stand as grand representations of Baghari. These larger formats emphasize the prestige of the fragrance, ideal for collectors or those who wish to luxuriate in its scent over a longer period. The design of these bottles continues to reflect the high standards of Pochet et du Courval, with their crystal-clear clarity and elegant lines enhancing the overall experience of the fragrance.



Fate of the Fragrance:


In the 1950s, Robert Piguet's fragrances were under the stewardship of the John Robert Powers Products Company. This collaboration marked a period when the fragrance bottles and their packaging prominently displayed both names: Robert Piguet and John Robert Powers. The partnership reflected the synergy between Piguet’s sophisticated creations and the distribution expertise of John Robert Powers, aiming to reach a broader audience with an elegant presentation that emphasized the high status of the fragrances.

By 1960, the distribution of Robert Piguet perfumes in the United States shifted to Jacqueline Cochran, a prominent figure in the beauty and fashion industry. This transition introduced a new chapter for Piguet's fragrances in the American market. During this era, the branding on the bottles and boxes predominantly featured the name "Robert Piguet Parfums," signifying a focus on the luxury and heritage of the brand. The distinctive packaging of the time carried the essence of Piguet’s refined and timeless scents, becoming a hallmark of elegance and exclusivity until around 1982.



From 1982 to 1995, the Robert Piguet fragrances were under the ownership of Alfin, a company led by Irwin Alfin and Adrien Arpel, Inc. This period marked a significant shift in the brand's management, with Alfin overseeing the production, distribution, and licensing of Piguet's renowned scents. In 1985, Alfin established a dedicated subsidiary, Orinter Geneva Switzerland, to manage the Parfums Robert Piguet portfolio more effectively. This move was part of a broader strategy to modernize and expand the reach of the brand’s classic fragrances, including Fracas, Bandit, Cravache, Baghari, and Musk Blanc.

During this era, Alfin focused on mass marketing and global distribution, attempting to make Piguet's perfumes more widely available. However, this approach involved significant reformulations of the original fragrances. Regrettably, these new versions did not meet the expectations of many fragrance enthusiasts, who found the reformulated scents to be lacking compared to their vintage counterparts. Notably, the company released two iterations of Baghari: Baghari Femme and Baghari Pour Homme. Despite these efforts to refresh the brand’s offerings, the revised formulas were generally received unfavorably, as they struggled to capture the essence and allure of the original creations.
In 1995, the Robert Piguet brand was acquired by Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics, Ltd. (FF&C), marking a pivotal moment in the brand's history. Under FF&C's stewardship, the company embarked on a revival of its esteemed fragrance portfolio. This revitalization included the reintroduction of several classic scents that had once defined the brand's legacy, alongside the launch of new creations to appeal to contemporary tastes. The acquisition represented a fresh chapter for Robert Piguet, aiming to restore the brand's prominence in the luxury fragrance market.

Among the fragrances reintroduced was Baghari, a signature scent of the house. In 2006, Baghari underwent a careful reformulation by the perfumer Aurelien Guichard, who sought to capture the essence of the original version while adapting it for modern sensibilities. This updated iteration of Baghari was crafted to closely mirror the classic formulation, preserving the rich and opulent character that had made the fragrance a beloved classic. The result is the current version available on the Robert Piguet Parfums website, which pays homage to its storied past while meeting the expectations of today’s fragrance connoisseurs.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral amber fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot and neroli
  • Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, jasmine, iris and violet
  • Base notes: amber, vanilla, musk and vetiver

Scent Profile:


In the vibrant opening of this aldehydic floral amber fragrance, the top notes immediately captivate with a sparkling burst of aldehydes. This effervescent quality evokes a sensation of crisp, clean freshness, akin to a delicate mist of morning dew. As the aldehydes begin to settle, the fragrance unfurls a radiant citrusy nuance from the bergamot. 

This bright, tangy note introduces a zesty vibrancy, like the first rays of sunshine piercing through a clouded sky. Complementing this is the soft, honeyed touch of neroli, which adds a hint of floral sweetness and a sense of lushness reminiscent of an early spring garden in full bloom.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a sophisticated floral symphony. The Bulgarian rose, renowned for its deep, velvety richness, lends an opulent and romantic character, like a bouquet of the finest roses, freshly gathered at the peak of their bloom. This is harmoniously blended with the creamy, intoxicating essence of jasmine, which introduces an air of sensuality and warmth, evoking the scent of moonlit jasmine flowers releasing their fragrance into the evening air. 

Iris adds a touch of powdery elegance, with its soft, velvety texture evoking the refined opulence of a silk gown brushing against the skin. Violet, with its green, slightly woody undertones, weaves through the heart notes, adding a whisper of sophistication and a touch of the garden’s understated charm.

The base notes settle into a warm, enveloping embrace, beginning with the rich, resinous depth of amber. This note provides a golden, sweet warmth, like a cozy blanket on a chilly evening. Vanilla enhances this warmth with its creamy, luscious sweetness, adding a comforting and indulgent touch. 

Musk, with its subtle, animalistic allure, deepens the base with a sensual, lingering quality that feels both intimate and enduring. Finally, vetiver introduces an earthy, woody nuance that grounds the fragrance, reminiscent of a walk through a dense, sun-dappled forest. The combination of these base notes creates a lasting impression that is both luxurious and profoundly comforting.

Product Line:


The Baghari fragrance line offers a range of luxurious products designed to immerse you in its rich, oriental scent profile.

The Baghari 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray is a refined introduction to this opulent fragrance. Housed in a sophisticated bottle, it delivers a concentrated burst of Baghari’s exquisite blend of aldehydes, citrus zest, and floral notes. This size is perfect for daily wear, offering a touch of elegance and sophistication that can accompany you throughout the day. The compact design makes it ideal for carrying in a purse or travel bag, ensuring that the captivating scent of Baghari is always within reach.

The Baghari 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum Spray is a more substantial option, providing a generous amount of the fragrance in a beautifully designed bottle. This size is suited for those who wish to enjoy the luxurious scent of Baghari on a more frequent basis, whether at home or at the office. The larger quantity ensures that the perfume lasts longer, allowing you to indulge in its complex notes of bergamot, jasmine, and amber for an extended period. Its elegant presentation reflects the sophistication of the fragrance within.

The Baghari 10.0 oz Silkening Body Lotion complements the Eau de Parfum offerings with a lavish, scented experience that extends the Baghari aroma beyond just the perfume. This body lotion enriches the skin with a silky, moisturizing texture, leaving it soft and hydrated while imparting a subtle, lingering hint of the Baghari fragrance. The lotion absorbs quickly, providing an indulgent treat for the skin and enhancing the overall olfactory experience with its rich, floral, and amber notes. This product is perfect for those who want to immerse themselves fully in the luxurious essence of Baghari, extending its sensual allure to every part of the body.

No comments:

Post a Comment