History

Born in Yverdon, Switzerland in 1901, Robert Piguet was the son of a banker. Although he trained to follow in his father's footsteps, he left for Paris at age 17 to study design.

For the next ten years, Piguet apprenticed at the house of Redfern and with Paul Poiret before establishing his own house on the rue du Cirque in 1928.

In 1933, he moved to the Rond-Point in the Champs Elysees. Piguet's designs were intended for the petite, younger woman: perfectly cut dresses of refined simplicity. The numerous designers who worked for him at different times, illustrate the influence Piguet exercised in the fashion world: Christian Dior, who was made head designer in 1938, Marc Bohan, Hubert de Givenchy, James Galanos, and Pierre Balmain.

No longer able to withstand the rigorous schedules and activity of his profession, he closed his house and retired in 1951 where he died two years later in Lausanne.




The Parfums Robert Piguet company operated under the umbrella of "Societe d'Etudes et d'Expansion de la Parfumerie de Luxe, Societe Anonyme" of 20 rue de la Paix, Paris, along with the two other perfume companies: Parfums Renoir, and Parfums Raucour. With help from SEELP, SA, he was able to launch his first perfume, Bandit, in 1944.

This was followed by Baghari, Visa, and the famous and most successful of all, Fracas. Other perfumes were released later such as Calypso, Cravache, and Futur. The Piguet perfumes were housed in black glass or clear glass bottles with cut crystal stoppers manufactured by Pochet et du Courval.

Parfums Renoir:


Parfums Renoir launched their own line of fragrances but also produced perfumes for other companies such as Robert Piguet. Parfums Renoir was established at 20 rue de la Paix, Paris in 1939, the same address as SEEPL, SA. Launched own line of fragrances but also produced perfumes for other companies such as Robert Piguet.

Renoir became Raucour in 1945,but most of the fragrances were still sold under the Renoir name in the USA, where they were distributed by Mauvel Ltd of New York.



Renoir had a perfume Futur in 1939, this was later used by Piguet. And while under the Raucour name, the perfume Calypso was released and later used by Piguet. All of these similar named fragrances appear to be the same in formula, just recycled names. When one company was dissolved, the surviving company took over usage of the perfume name, trade dress and distribution, only to be rebranded under their own company name.





Dona Sol by Renoir is described as a slightly aldehydic perfume imbued with sweet jasmine and spice, said to be good with furs. The perfume was inspired by the enticing and dramatic Spanish fashions, capturing all the warmth and romance of Spain. "Renoir takes the fire of seven suns to melt the coolest heart in Dona Sol." It was still being sold in 1959 under Renoir name.

Grande Epoque, a spicy floral bouquet perfume, was Renoir's rich, suave distillation of musk, flowers and rare fruit bases including, surprisingly, fig. It was still being sold in 1957 under Renoir name.

Messager was an aldehydic light floral perfume, with a warm, velvety, sweet facet, and a dominant jasmine note. It was still being sold in 1959 under the Renoir name.

Gambade was a youthful blend of jasmine, rose, lilac, hyacinth and honeysuckle. This was still being sold in 1964 under the Renoir name.

Futur was launched in 1939, this was classified as an oriental or semi-oriental perfume with a dominant base of spices and myrrh, was still being sold in 1964 under the Renoir name.

Chi Chi, pronounced "She She," described as a "piquant", "pungent" "daytime spice", was still being sold in 1958.

My Alibi was also still being sold in 1958 and was described as "sultry".






The perfumes of Renoir:

  • 1939 Dona Sol (aldehydic oriental perfume, good with fur)
  • 1939 Futur (a spicy oriental or semi-oriental myrrh perfume)
  • 1939 Messager (aldehydic sweet floral jasmine perfume)
  • 1941 Impetuous
  • 1942 Alibi
  • 1942 My Alibi
  • 1942 Chi Chi (a spicy, powdery perfume)
  • 1942 Witchcraft
  • 1942 Aka-Iveh
  • 1942 Daring
  • 1943 Cattleya Elegans
  • 1944 Paradox
  • 1945 Pastorale
  • 1946 Gambade ((jasmine, rose, lilac, hyacinth and honeysuckle)
  • 1947 Grande Epoque (a spicy floral bouquet perfume)
  • 1949 Eau de Renoir
  • Guirlande
  • Pavane




Raucour:


Raucour's perfumes were sold in clear glass bottles decorated with gilded banding as were the majority of Renoir's.

The perfume Calypso was available in four sizes and retailed for $15, $25, $47.50 and $60 in 1947. A dram size was also available for $2.75

Grand Epoque was available in two sizes and retailed for $15 and $25 in 1947. The dram size was $2.75.

The perfumes of Raucour:

  • 1946 Grande Epoque
  • 1946 Lavande
  • 1946 Calypso
  • 1946 Messager
  • 1946 Cattleya
  • 1946 Futur












 



In the 1950s, the Robert Piguet fragrances were owned and distributed by the John Robert Powers Products Company. You will see both names on bottles and boxes.

In 1960, Jacqueline Cochran became the distributor for Robert Piguet perfumes in the USA. The boxes and bottles may only be marked with the "Robert Piguet Parfums" name was used until around 1982.

The Robert Piguet fragrances were owned by Alfin (Irwin Alfin/Adrien Arpel, Inc.) from 1982-1995. In 1985, the company formed a subdivision, Orinter Geneva Switzerland, to handle the Parfums Robert Piguet. The Company owned the exclusive worldwide manufacturing, distribution and licensing rights for Fracas, Bandit, Cravache, and Musk Blanc. The company also initiated mass marketing of other popular Robert Piguet fragrances.

It was at this time that they reformulated and relaunched these fragrances, and unfortunately, these versions are the worst according to online reviews.

The company also released Fracas for Men, a complete flop, which according to many people, has no relation to Fracas, and is not even in the same league as other Robert Piguet fragrances.

Then the Robert Piguet brand was acquired by Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics, Ltd. (FF&C) in 1995 who reformulated Fracas to closely resemble the original version and relaunched it in 1998. This is the current version seen on the Robert Piguet Parfums website. Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics has brought back several of the original classics as well as launching new ones.

To date your modern bottles, all labels on the bases will be labeled with the following name and addresses:

"Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd", and:
  • 1998-2004: "New York" address only.
  • 2004-2009: "NY" plus "Amstelveen, Netherlands."
  • 2010- to date: "NY" plus "Thorigny sur Marne, France"


On these bottles, the boxes should display a certification on the side:
"Certification by Givaudan" signed by the current President:
  • 1998-1999: Geoffrey W. Webster
  • 2000-2003: Errol G.W. Stafford
  • 2004-2014: Michael Carlos

 Further date identification clues are the list of ingredients stated on the boxes:
  • 2004 until 2005 had a simple, short list of ingredients
  • After 2005, the mandatory long list of ingredients appeared

Many of the Robert Piguet fragrances were reformulated again in 2006 to exclude the oakmoss per IFRA regulations.

Special thanks to my friend Andre Moreau at Raiders of the Lost Scent blog for some more accurate info on dating bottles.

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