Launched in 1949, Calypso by Robert Piguet embodies a sense of exotic allure and timeless elegance. The name "Calypso," derived from Greek mythology, refers to the nymph who detained Odysseus on her island, captivated by her beauty and charm. This name evokes images of enchanting landscapes, seductive allure, and a touch of the mythical, suggesting a fragrance that is both captivating and enigmatic.
The term "Calypso" in fragrance conjures an essence of mystery and allure, much like the nymph herself. The name suggests a perfume that would offer a sophisticated blend of aromas, designed to enchant and mesmerize, leaving a lasting impression. Women of the late 1940s, a period marked by a resurgence of elegance and glamour after World War II, would have related to Calypso as a symbol of opulence and sophistication. The fragrance's name aligned with the post-war desire for escape and romance, capturing the imagination of women looking to embrace a sense of luxury and exoticism.
During this era, the fragrance industry was transitioning from the heavy, opulent scents of the earlier decades to lighter, more refined compositions. Calypso, classified as a spicy floral fragrance, stood out with its unique blend of rich, exotic spices and elegant floral notes. While many perfumes of the time adhered to traditional, classic styles, Calypso offered a modern twist with its spicy and floral elements, positioning it as both contemporary and distinctive. Its launch reflects a shift towards more complex and layered scents, catering to the tastes of a new generation eager for innovation in their fragrance experiences.
Original Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? The fragrance is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: narcissus, green accord, mandarin, fruity note and Egyptian geranium.
- Heart notes: peony, carnation, gardenia, Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine, Italian orris root and rose centifolia.
- Base notes: spices, sandalwood, oakmoss, resins, Ethiopian civet, patchouli, ambergris and suede
Paris Personal, 1963:
"This is a very piquant perfume, and terribly sexy," she explains. "At first contact, it is too screaming and violent. However, it assimilates so well that in a few minutes you think it had been born in the skin. "Calypso by Piguet," she goes on."
L'Art et la Mode, 1965:
"Fidèle à la tradition de Robert Piguet qui voulait que ses parfums soient un reflet de leur époque, il créa Calypso, séduisant comme son nom. Cette dernière création unit des accents nouveaux de fraîcheur et d'ardeur; elle évoque le beau mythe de la nymphe amoureuse qui enchanta Ulysse et fait penser aux parfums de reve des iles fortunees."
Scent Profile:
The heart of Calypso reveals a luxuriant tapestry of florals. Peony unfurls its velvety petals, creating a lush, opulent bouquet that is both sophisticated and romantic. Carnation adds a spicy, peppery warmth, enhancing the floral complexity with its rich, aromatic intensity.
Gardenia's creamy, tropical sweetness mingles effortlessly with Bulgarian rose, whose deep, velvety scent brings a timeless elegance. Grasse jasmine introduces an intoxicating, heady fragrance, while Italian orris root adds a hint of powdery softness. Rose Centifolia contributes an additional layer of classic rose fragrance, enriching the heart with its lush, dewy quality.
As Calypso settles into its base, a captivating blend of spices emerges, adding depth and intrigue with their warm, aromatic qualities. Sandalwood provides a smooth, creamy foundation, while oakmoss lends a rich, earthy undertone that grounds the fragrance.
As Calypso settles into its base, a captivating blend of spices emerges, adding depth and intrigue with their warm, aromatic qualities. Sandalwood provides a smooth, creamy foundation, while oakmoss lends a rich, earthy undertone that grounds the fragrance.
Resins enhance the scent with their golden, resinous warmth, creating a sense of opulence. Ethiopian civet introduces a subtle animalic richness, adding complexity and depth. Patchouli and ambergris further enrich the base, with patchouli offering its signature earthy, woody aroma and ambergris contributing a sweet, oceanic nuance. Finally, suede wraps the composition in a soft, sensual layer, providing a sophisticated and elegant finish.
Bottles:
The exquisite bottles of Calypso were crafted by the renowned French glassmaker Pochet et du Courval, known for their dedication to fine artistry in glass.
The Calypso Parfum was presented in a range of elegant clear crystal bottles, each meticulously designed to reflect the luxury of the fragrance within. The smallest, a 1/8 oz purse-size mini, was a dainty, portable gem, perfect for carrying a touch of sophistication on the go. Slightly larger, the 1/4 oz bottle stood at a delicate 2.25 inches tall, offering a compact yet stylish option. The 1/2 oz bottle, with its height of 2.5 inches (Ref # 570), provided a graceful balance between size and elegance, making it a popular choice for collectors and enthusiasts. For those seeking a more substantial presence, the 1 oz bottle, standing 3 3/8 inches tall (Ref # 5700), offered a more commanding yet refined aesthetic. Finally, the 2 oz bottle, measuring 4.25 inches tall, was the epitome of luxury, designed to showcase the fragrance in a generously proportioned and visually stunning vessel.
The Calypso Eau de Toilette was offered in two sizes, reflecting a slightly different focus on usability and convenience. The 2 oz bottle, with its elegant proportions, was ideal for daily wear, while the larger 4 oz bottle provided an ample supply of the beloved fragrance, perfect for those who wished to indulge more frequently.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Calypso by Robert Piguet, a beloved fragrance first introduced in 1949, was discontinued in the 1970s, marking the end of its era in the spotlight.
In the 1950s, the distribution and ownership of Robert Piguet fragrances, including Calypso, were managed by the John Robert Powers Products Company. This partnership saw both names featured on the bottles and boxes of the time, reflecting a period of transition and growth for the brand.
In 1960, Jacqueline Cochran took over as the distributor for Robert Piguet perfumes in the United States. During this era, the packaging and branding were streamlined to display "Robert Piguet Parfums," a name that remained prominent until around 1982. This period was marked by a consolidation of the brand’s identity in the American market.
From 1982 to 1995, the Robert Piguet fragrances were under the ownership of Alfin, also known as Irwin Alfin/Adrien Arpel, Inc. In 1985, Alfin established Orinter Geneva Switzerland, a subdivision tasked with managing Robert Piguet’s fragrance portfolio. This arrangement included exclusive worldwide manufacturing, distribution, and licensing rights for notable scents such as Fracas, Bandit, Cravache, Baghari, and Musk Blanc. During this time, the fragrances were reformulated and relaunched, but these new versions received less favorable reviews from enthusiasts and critics alike, who noted a decline in the quality of the reformulations.
In 1995, the Robert Piguet brand was acquired by Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics, Ltd. (FF&C). This acquisition led to the revival of several original classics and the introduction of new fragrances. Baghari was among those reformulated to closely match its original version, with the new formulation launched in 2010. Today, Baghari is available in 30 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum sizes on the Robert Piguet Parfums website, continuing the brand’s legacy of sophistication and elegance.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: geranium, mandarin orange
- Middle notes: orris root, Bulgarian rose, Turkish rose
- Base notes: patchouli, amber, suede, musk
Scent Profile:
Calypso, a fragrance that embodies an opulent floral oriental essence, unfolds with a rich tapestry of scents, each note contributing to its enchanting character.
At the first breath, the top notes reveal an invigorating blend of geranium and mandarin orange. Imagine the fresh, green, and slightly peppery scent of geranium leaves, bursting with a dewy vitality that immediately awakens the senses. This is elegantly intertwined with the juicy, citrusy brightness of mandarin orange. The mandarin’s zesty sweetness is both crisp and succulent, delivering a vibrant, uplifting start that tantalizes and refreshes.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart notes emerge with a lavish bouquet. The orris root, a coveted ingredient in perfumery, offers a soft, velvety texture with a hint of powderiness, akin to the delicate touch of silk on skin. This smooth and sophisticated scent seamlessly blends with the deep, velvety richness of Bulgarian rose, whose aroma is intoxicatingly lush and opulent. Turkish rose complements this with its slightly spicy, warm floral notes, adding a layer of complexity and depth. Together, these floral elements create a harmonious and luxurious middle that feels both timeless and elegant.
The base notes of Calypso anchor the fragrance with a sensual, enduring finish. The earthy, woody richness of patchouli intertwines with the warm, resinous sweetness of amber, providing a grounding yet exotic foundation. Suede adds a soft, supple texture, reminiscent of a finely crafted leather, while musk introduces a subtle, animalic warmth that deepens the fragrance’s allure. This base creates a lasting impression, wrapping you in a cocoon of sophistication and sensuality.
Calypso ultimately tells a story of refined elegance and sensual indulgence, with each ingredient contributing to its unique and captivating scent profile.
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