Visa by Robert Piguet, launched in 1945, carries a name that evokes a sense of sophistication and exclusivity. The word "Visa," derived from Latin, means "view" or "sight," and is used in modern times to refer to an official authorization for travel. In the context of perfume, "Visa" suggests a gateway to a new sensory experience, a fragrant passport to a world of luxury and allure. This name was likely chosen to evoke a sense of global elegance and cosmopolitan charm, aligning with the post-war era's burgeoning sense of freedom and exploration.
The name "Visa" would have appealed to women of the time as it symbolized both adventure and sophistication, reflecting the post-World War II era’s optimism and the renewed interest in luxury and refinement. In scent, "Visa" translates to a rich, opulent experience, combining elements of leather, chypre, and oriental notes to create a fragrance that is both assertive and intimate. It would have been perceived as a scent for the modern, confident woman who desired to make a strong impression.
Created by the renowned perfumers Jean Carles and Germaine Cellier, Visa fits within the 1940s perfume landscape but stands out for its bold composition. While the period was characterized by classic floral and aldehydic fragrances, Visa’s leathery chypre oriental profile was innovative and daring. It offered a departure from the more delicate scents of the time, reflecting a more profound and complex olfactory experience. This fragrance’s use of robust leather and rich oriental spices was both pioneering and aligned with the era’s evolving tastes towards more dramatic and layered fragrances.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? The original vintage version is classified as a leathery chypre oriental fragrance for women. Visa with its light, refreshing scent, was created especially for daytime wear and for blondes.
- Top notes: aldehydes, white peach, pear, violet leaf, Italian bergamot and mandarin
- Middle notes: Chinese gardenia, Egyptian geranium, Grasse jasmine, cinnamon, Filipino ylang-ylang, rose, cloves, Tunisian orange blossom, Moluccan nutmeg, immortelle
- Base notes: Colombian tolu balsam, costus, patchouli, Atlas cedar, castoreum, sandalwood, Zanzibar vetiver, oakmoss, Ethiopian civet, vanilla, benzoin, Tibetan musk and leather
Combat, 1953:
"Visa by Robert Piguet - Leather, Chinese gardenia, cedrus atlantica, with exotic notes: tolu from Colombia, nutmeg from the Moluccas, ylang ylang from the Philippines and vetiver from Zanzibar. The veteran of beautiful ships, in her exotic wooden cabin, opened her suitcases, fragrant beasts loaded with trophies. Here roves which smell of rue de la Pais; there carnivorous flowers which keep the aroma of the jungles. A taste of seaweed comes through the portholes. And the nomad contemplates the visa of a passport for any change of scenery."
Scent Profile:
Visa, the vintage fragrance by Robert Piguet, opens with a fresh and airy introduction that immediately captures the senses. The top notes are a harmonious blend of aldehydes and fruits that evoke a bright, sparkling quality. The aldehydes lend a crisp, soapy freshness that feels both clean and invigorating. As this initial burst unfolds, the juicy sweetness of white peach and ripe pear mingle with the verdant, slightly spicy scent of violet leaf, adding a green, slightly woody edge. Italian bergamot and mandarin provide a zesty, citrusy lift, enhancing the fragrance’s brightness and effervescence.
In the heart of Visa, the fragrance transitions into a lush, floral bouquet with depth and complexity. The Chinese gardenia and Egyptian geranium create a rich, creamy floral essence, enveloping you in their opulent, velvety aroma. Grasse jasmine infuses the composition with its heady, narcotic quality, adding a touch of exotic sensuality. Filipino ylang-ylang and rose contribute to a harmonious floral blend, where ylang-ylang's sweet, tropical notes weave through the rich, classic scent of rose. Spicy cinnamon and warm cloves introduce a hint of complexity, while the Tunisian orange blossom imparts a delicate, almost honeyed sweetness. Moluccan nutmeg and immortelle enhance the fragrance with their warm, spicy, and slightly resinous facets.
The base notes of Visa reveal a profound, enduring richness that anchors the fragrance. Colombian tolu balsam and costus provide a resinous, balsamic sweetness with an intriguing, slightly animalic undertone. Patchouli and Atlas cedar contribute earthy, woody nuances, giving the perfume its distinctive leathery character. Castoreum and sandalwood add a creamy, warm depth, while Zanzibar vetiver introduces a smoky, earthy edge. Oakmoss lends a classic chypre quality with its green, forest-like scent, and Ethiopian civet imparts a sensual, animalic richness. Vanilla and benzoin offer a smooth, sweet, and slightly balsamic warmth, while Tibetan musk and leather round out the base with their deep, rich, and luxurious aroma. This complex base creates a lasting impression, making Visa a fragrance that is both sophisticated and deeply evocative.
Bottles:
The crystal parfum bottles crafted by Pochet et du Courval are a testament to the artistry and precision of French glassmaking. Each size in this elegant collection showcases the craftsmanship of this esteemed producer.
The 1/8 oz purse size mini is a petite, yet striking, bottle that exudes sophistication. Its compact form is perfect for carrying a touch of luxury on the go, while its clear crystal structure allows the fragrance to shimmer through, making it both functional and beautiful.
The 1/4 oz bottle, standing at 2.25 inches tall, is an exquisite example of refinement in a small package. Its delicate stature highlights the intricate clarity and brilliance of the crystal, making it a prized piece for collectors or as a charming addition to any vanity.
The 1/2 oz bottle reaches 2.5 inches in height, offering a slightly more substantial presence while retaining its elegant, compact design. This size strikes a balance between practicality and opulence, making it ideal for those who appreciate both form and function in their fragrance bottles.
The 1 oz bottle, standing 3 3/8 inches tall, provides a more prominent display of the crystal’s artistry. Its increased size allows for a more generous amount of perfume while maintaining the refined, classic lines that define the collection.
The 2 oz bottle, with a height of 4.25 inches, offers a substantial and elegant presence. Its larger size showcases the crystal’s brilliance and craftsmanship in full, making it a centerpiece on any dresser or vanity.
The 4 oz and 8 oz bottles represent the pinnacle of luxury and practicality in this range. Their larger volumes are housed in beautifully sculpted crystal bottles that reflect the light with an impressive radiance. These sizes cater to those who desire a grand statement piece or require a more extensive supply of their favorite fragrance.
Each bottle, meticulously crafted by Pochet et du Courval, reflects the timeless elegance and high-quality standards of French glassmaking, ensuring that these containers are as cherished as the perfumes they hold.
France-Illustration, 1948:
"A Perfume Bottle Sent by Airmail for the Princess. The Frenchman - although very young and even if he does not show enormous practical sense - is known to have these charming gestures which touch the heart of a woman. This is how a team of French scouts from New York sent to Paris, for Princess Elizabeth, a bottle of Parisian perfume...bought in New York. Their gracious present - a bottle of VISA by Robert Piguet, whose packaging is specially designed for air travel - is the fruit of all their pooled savings. Lovingly carried to La Guardia Field, New York airport, it was hand-delivered there to an Air France pilot, with instructions to deliver it to another team of scouts who had come to pick it up at Orly. They had the great honor of handing it over to the princess. Sixty-five scouts from the Lycée Francais de New York team participated in the purchase of Piguet's perfume. They declared that they knew, despite their young age, that the best souvenir that a woman could take away from Paris was a bottle of this perfume which made the city famous... and that they did not intend the princess to be deprived of this pleasure."
In 1948, France-Illustration captured a touching moment of international goodwill and elegance. The article highlighted a charming gesture by a team of French scouts from New York, who sent a bottle of Parisian perfume, Visa by Robert Piguet, to Princess Elizabeth. Despite their youth and lack of practical experience, these scouts demonstrated an endearing commitment to making a grand impression. The bottle, bought in New York and specially packaged for air travel, was carefully transported to La Guardia Field. There, it was hand-delivered to an Air France pilot with precise instructions to ensure it reached Paris and was transferred to a team of scouts at Orly Airport. The bottle of Visa, a symbol of French sophistication, was then presented to the princess. The 65 scouts from the Lycée Français de New York pooled their savings to procure this esteemed fragrance, believing that it represented the epitome of Parisian luxury and was a fitting gift for the royal recipient.
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Visa by Robert Piguet: The Scottish tartan sheath and the yellow packaging invite you to ultra-fast and magical journeys. For the departure towards the zenith, in the clouds or the sun... in Orly, Rio, La Guardia or Bombay... This 'visa' is a passport of elegance."
In 1950, L'Amour de l'art celebrated Visa by Robert Piguet with evocative imagery and vibrant descriptions. The perfume, encased in its distinctive Scottish tartan sheath and yellow packaging, was portrayed as a gateway to extravagant and enchanting destinations. The article poetically suggested that wearing Visa could transport one to celestial heights or exotic locales such as Orly, Rio, La Guardia, or Bombay. This “visa” to elegance was not just a fragrance but a passport to a world of sophistication and allure.
Homes & Gardens, 1951:
"Robert Piguet's " Visa " in eau- de-toilette form, tartan-boxed, both look and smell distinguished. Certainly a lovely new presentation counts for a very great deal."
By 1951, Homes & Gardens noted that Robert Piguet's Visa, available in eau-de-toilette form and presented in its tartan-boxed packaging, made a striking impression. The magazine praised the distinguished appearance and scent of the perfume, emphasizing that the new presentation added significant value. The refined aesthetics of the bottle and the exquisite fragrance combined to offer a truly elegant experience, making Visa a standout choice for those seeking both style and sophistication in their perfume.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Visa by Robert Piguet was discontinued, with its exact date of cessation remaining unclear, although it was still available in 1958. During the 1950s, the distribution and ownership of Robert Piguet fragrances were under the John Robert Powers Products Company, evident on both bottles and packaging of that era.
In 1960, Jacqueline Cochran took over as the distributor for Robert Piguet perfumes in the USA. Under her stewardship, the fragrances were exclusively marked with the "Robert Piguet Parfums" name, a practice that continued until around 1982. This period marked a notable chapter in the brand's history, aligning it with Cochran’s reputation for elegance and refinement.
From 1982 to 1995, ownership of the Robert Piguet fragrances transitioned to Alfin, specifically Irwin Alfin/Adrien Arpel, Inc. In 1985, Alfin established a subdivision called Orinter Geneva Switzerland to manage the Parfums Robert Piguet portfolio. This subsidiary was granted exclusive worldwide rights for several classic scents, including Fracas, Bandit, Cravache, Baghari, and Musk Blanc. During this time, the company also embarked on a broader marketing strategy for these well-known fragrances. Unfortunately, the reformulated versions introduced during this period faced criticism, with many enthusiasts and reviewers lamenting the diminished quality compared to the originals.
The Robert Piguet brand underwent another significant change in 1995 when it was acquired by Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics, Ltd. (FF&C). Under this new ownership, several original classics were reintroduced alongside new releases, aiming to restore and enhance the brand’s prestigious legacy.
In 2007, Visa was reformulated by Aurelien Guichard to more closely resemble the original feminine version. This updated formulation is the current iteration available on the Robert Piguet Parfums website, reflecting a commitment to preserving the timeless essence of the fragrance while adapting to contemporary tastes.
From Robert Piguet Parfums website:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a gourmand oriental fragrance for women.
"A blend of spices, flowers and fruits from different areas of the globe."
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: white peach, pear, violet leaves, Italian bergamot and yellow mandarin essences
- Middle notes: ylang-ylang absolute, rose absolute, immortelle absolute and orange blossom absolute
- Base notes: Indonesian patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, moss, vanilla bean, benzoin and leather accord
Scent Profile:
In Visa by Robert Piguet, each ingredient intertwines to create a fragrance that is both sophisticated and sensual, evoking a rich tapestry of olfactory experiences.
The top notes present a bright and inviting introduction. Imagine the crisp, juicy burst of white peach, its flesh ripe and velvety, blending seamlessly with the lush sweetness of pear. The fresh, green aroma of violet leaves adds a subtle, herbaceous undertone, harmonizing with the zesty sparkle of Italian bergamot and yellow mandarin essences. This opening combination evokes a sense of sunlit orchards and dewy gardens, setting a vibrant, yet delicate stage for what follows.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals its deeper, more complex character. The ylang-ylang absolute brings an exotic, creamy floral sweetness, reminiscent of tropical nights and lush blooms. This is enriched by the opulent rose absolute, with its classic, full-bodied scent that speaks of romance and timeless elegance. Immortelle absolute introduces a warm, golden quality, its unique, honeyed aroma mingling with the rich, fragrant notes of orange blossom absolute. Together, these middle notes create a symphony of luxurious, floral opulence that feels both intimate and grand.
In the base, the fragrance settles into a profoundly sensual and enduring finish. Indonesian patchouli lends a deep, earthy richness, its smoky nuances interplaying with the smooth, creamy warmth of sandalwood. Vetiver adds a touch of green, woody depth, while moss provides an ancient, forest-like quality that grounds the composition. Vanilla bean and benzoin offer a sweet, balsamic warmth, their comforting, velvety notes weaving through the scent. Finally, the leather accord introduces a sophisticated, slightly animalic edge, enhancing the fragrance’s depth and allure. This base evokes a sense of luxurious sophistication and timeless elegance, leaving a lasting impression that lingers on the skin.
Together, these notes form a harmonious, gourmand oriental fragrance that is both enticing and unforgettable, capturing the essence of refined elegance and sensuality.
Limited Edition Flacons:
In 2014, a special limited edition of Visa was unveiled exclusively at Harrods, designed to captivate both fragrance enthusiasts and collectors alike. This edition is housed in a luxurious flacon that radiates opulence with its precious gold finish. The bottle's gleaming surface is richly gilded, reflecting a sense of grandeur and sophistication that complements the timeless allure of the fragrance within.
The gold-finished bottle is elegantly set upon a bed of soft ivory satin, nestled inside a sleek black coffret. This presentation adds a touch of classic refinement and ensures the bottle is displayed with the utmost grace. The body of the flacon is adorned with a black tag, its name elegantly inscribed in gold letters, emphasizing the exclusivity of this collector’s edition.
The fragrance itself remains unchanged, preserving the original composition of Visa as a gourmand oriental scent that continues to enchant with its blend of white peach, pear, and rich floral notes. Inside this exquisite bottle, you’ll find 100ml of Eau de Parfum, offering both a sense of luxury and a nod to the classic charm of the original formula. Priced at £150.00, this limited edition is a testament to the enduring appeal of Visa, presented in a form that elevates it to a treasured keepsake.
In 2013, the Robert Piguet brand unveiled the Limited Edition Visa de Robert Piguet Parfum, a masterpiece that epitomizes opulence and splendor. This extraordinary edition is a testament to luxurious craftsmanship and aesthetic elegance, designed to captivate and delight the most discerning fragrance connoisseurs.
The flacons of this limited edition are adorned with delicate Swarovski Elements Crystals, meticulously applied to each facet of the bottle. These crystals shimmer and sparkle, enhancing the bottle’s allure and transforming it into a stunning objet d'art. The crystallized stopper complements the bottle’s brilliance, adding a final touch of glamour and sophistication.
Presented as a grand 1-liter bottle, this exclusive edition commands attention with its sheer size and radiant beauty. Retailing for $13,500 in 2013, it represents the pinnacle of luxury in the world of perfumery, blending the timeless elegance of Visa with the dazzling allure of Swarovski crystals. This limited edition is not merely a fragrance; it is a statement piece that celebrates the intersection of high fashion and high art.
In 2013, the Robert Piguet brand introduced the Limited Edition Visa de Robert Piguet Parfum, a luxurious tribute to opulence and splendor. This special edition is distinguished by its exquisite craftsmanship, featuring delicate Swarovski Elements Crystals that embellish each facet of the bottle. These crystals are meticulously applied to catch and reflect light, creating a mesmerizing display of brilliance and sophistication.
The crystallized stopper enhances the bottle's elegance, completing its lavish design. Each 60ml flacon is presented in a sleek black piano box, further elevating the sense of luxury and refinement. The presentation is as much a feast for the eyes as the fragrance is for the senses.
Retailing for $1,100.00 in 2013, this edition of Visa is more than a perfume—it's a statement of timeless elegance and artistry. The combination of the exquisite bottle design and the opulent packaging makes it a collector's piece, perfect for those who appreciate the intersection of fine fragrance and high-end luxury.
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