Showing posts with label cologne. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cologne. Show all posts

Saturday, December 13, 2014

Cravache by Robert Piguet c1953

Launched in 1953, Cravache by Robert Piguet presents a captivating exploration of fragrance, inspired by Piguet's passion for horseback riding. The name Cravache, which translates to "whip" in French, reflects Piguet’s equestrian pursuits and the invigorating scents he encountered during his rides through the countryside. This evocative term conjures images of dynamic motion and a sense of rugged sophistication, linking the fragrance to the exhilarating freedom of the open fields.

The word Cravache carries with it an aura of refinement and strength. It evokes the image of a classic riding crop, suggesting a blend of elegance and assertiveness. In scent, this translates to a fragrance that is both fresh and commanding, capturing the essence of a brisk, invigorating ride. Men of the era, with their appreciation for both tradition and modernity, would have been drawn to Cravache for its embodiment of a refined, masculine energy and its alignment with the sophisticated yet adventurous spirit of the mid-20th century.

In the context of the 1950s fragrance market, Cravache stood out for its unique combination of fresh and leather notes. The decade was characterized by a preference for bold and dramatic scents, often with rich, opulent compositions. Cravache differentiated itself with its fresh leather chypre profile, starting with a bright burst of bergamot and petitgrain, which lends an invigorating freshness. This is followed by a woody floral heart, where geranium, patchouli, and cedar blend seamlessly, creating a sophisticated and balanced mid-section. The fragrance settles into a warm, sweet, and powdery base of amber and musk, providing a depth that resonates with both traditional and contemporary olfactory tastes.

The potential reformulation in 1963 to enhance the masculine notes reflects the evolving preferences of the time, aiming to align more closely with the period’s shifting fragrance trends while preserving the original's distinctive character.




Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Baghari by Robert Piguet c1950

Baghari, launched by Robert Piguet in 1950, carries a name evocative of distant lands and exotic locales. The name "Baghari" refers to the small North African village of Baghara (also known as Baqqara), a place steeped in the mystique and allure of the desert. This choice reflects Piguet’s fascination with the romanticism and intrigue of North Africa, evoking images of sun-drenched landscapes, ancient sands, and a sense of timeless elegance.

The word "Baghari" conjures visions of an exotic journey, filled with the warmth of the sun and the whisper of cool desert breezes. It hints at a world of opulence and mystery, a sentiment that is intricately woven into the scent itself. The fragrance opens with a burst of aldehydes, which lend a fresh, almost effervescent quality, combined with bright citrus zests that add a vibrant, invigorating touch. This fresh and lively introduction quickly transitions to the heart of the fragrance, which reveals a classic and elegant floral bouquet.

In the middle notes, Baghari unfolds a rich tapestry of gardenia, rose, jasmine, iris, lilac, and wild lily of the valley. Each of these floral notes contributes to a sophisticated and complex heart. The gardenia offers a creamy, velvety softness, while the rose adds depth with its lush, romantic aroma. Jasmine and iris infuse the scent with their heady, refined qualities, and lilac and lily of the valley provide a touch of delicate sweetness. This opulent floral heart is a nod to the luxurious and timeless nature of early 1950s perfumery, when elegance and refinement were highly prized.

The base of Baghari is a warm, powdery blend that envelops the wearer in a comforting, sensual embrace. Ambergris lends a rich, resinous sweetness that is both exotic and deeply alluring. Musk adds a subtle animalic warmth, while vetiver and blond tobacco provide a nuanced, smoky complexity. Moss rounds out the base with an earthy, grounded finish. This combination of notes creates a scent that is both sophisticated and enduring, aligning with the rich oriental fragrances popular in the mid-20th century.

Baghari was released at a time when perfumery was exploring both new and classic elements. Its blend of fresh aldehydic top notes with a luxurious floral heart and a warm, resinous base made it distinctive yet harmonious with the trends of its era. It appealed to women seeking a fragrance that embodied both exotic allure and refined elegance, reflecting the glamour and sophistication of the post-war period.



Thursday, August 1, 2013

Fracas by Robert Piguet c1945

Launched in France in 1945 and introduced to the United States by 1948, Fracas by Robert Piguet quickly became an iconic fragrance, leaving an indelible mark on the world of perfumery. The name "Fracas," pronounced "fruh-CAH" in French, is a curious and deliberate choice. The word "Fracas" itself is French, meaning a loud noise, uproar, or commotion—terms that evoke a sense of drama, intensity, and disruption. In selecting this name, Robert Piguet likely sought to convey the idea that this fragrance was not just another perfume, but a bold statement that would command attention and provoke strong emotions.

The imagery and emotions associated with the word "Fracas" are vivid and powerful. It suggests an explosion of sensation, a burst of energy that breaks through the ordinary. In the context of a scent, "Fracas" would be interpreted as a perfume that is unapologetically bold and vibrant—one that creates an unforgettable impression and perhaps even stirs up a bit of controversy. For women in the mid-20th century, a perfume named "Fracas" would likely have been seen as daring and avant-garde, appealing to those who were confident and unafraid to make a statement.

The time period in which Fracas was launched was a moment of transition and recovery, as the world emerged from the shadows of World War II. The late 1940s were characterized by a return to glamour and femininity, with fashion and beauty seeking to recapture the elegance that had been put on hold during the war years. Many fragrances of the time were soft and romantic, echoing the desire for comfort and normalcy. However, Fracas, created by the legendary perfumer Germaine Cellier, stood out as a unique offering in this landscape.

Classified as an intense white floral fragrance, Fracas was unlike anything else on the market. While many perfumes of the time embraced a more subdued approach, Fracas was bold, lush, and heady, featuring prominent notes of tuberose—a flower known for its rich, intoxicating scent. This made it a trailblazer, setting it apart from other fragrances and solidifying its place in the pantheon of classic perfumes. Women who chose Fracas were likely those who wanted to embody the newfound spirit of independence and strength that defined the post-war era. It was a fragrance for the modern woman—one who was ready to reclaim her identity and make her presence known.