Launched in 1953, Cravache by Robert Piguet presents a captivating exploration of fragrance, inspired by Piguet's passion for horseback riding. The name Cravache, which translates to "whip" in French, reflects Piguet’s equestrian pursuits and the invigorating scents he encountered during his rides through the countryside. This evocative term conjures images of dynamic motion and a sense of rugged sophistication, linking the fragrance to the exhilarating freedom of the open fields.
The word Cravache carries with it an aura of refinement and strength. It evokes the image of a classic riding crop, suggesting a blend of elegance and assertiveness. In scent, this translates to a fragrance that is both fresh and commanding, capturing the essence of a brisk, invigorating ride. Men of the era, with their appreciation for both tradition and modernity, would have been drawn to Cravache for its embodiment of a refined, masculine energy and its alignment with the sophisticated yet adventurous spirit of the mid-20th century.
In the context of the 1950s fragrance market, Cravache stood out for its unique combination of fresh and leather notes. The decade was characterized by a preference for bold and dramatic scents, often with rich, opulent compositions. Cravache differentiated itself with its fresh leather chypre profile, starting with a bright burst of bergamot and petitgrain, which lends an invigorating freshness. This is followed by a woody floral heart, where geranium, patchouli, and cedar blend seamlessly, creating a sophisticated and balanced mid-section. The fragrance settles into a warm, sweet, and powdery base of amber and musk, providing a depth that resonates with both traditional and contemporary olfactory tastes.
The potential reformulation in 1963 to enhance the masculine notes reflects the evolving preferences of the time, aiming to align more closely with the period’s shifting fragrance trends while preserving the original's distinctive character.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh leather chypre fragrance for men. It begins with a fresh top o bergamot and petitgrain, followed by a woody floral heart blended with geranium, patchouli and cedar, resting on a sweet, powdery base of amber and musk.
- Top notes: verbena, lemon, Italian bergamot, lavender, petitgrain, rosemary, basil, citron, mandarin, orange
- Middle notes: Italian geranium, patchouli, cedar, Italian orris, Grasse jasmine, rose, carnation, sandalwood
- Base notes: Bourbon vetiver, oakmoss, Russian leather, tonka, vanilla, Tibetan musk, amber, benzoin
Scent Profile:
In Cravache, the initial burst of fresh top notes immediately captivates the senses. As you inhale, the crisp scent of verbena emerges, offering a zesty and slightly herbal vibrancy. This is swiftly complemented by the bright, citrusy tang of lemon and Italian bergamot, creating a refreshing, sunlit opening.
Lavender adds a touch of calming, aromatic depth, while petitgrain introduces a subtle, green spiciness reminiscent of freshly crushed leaves. The fragrance is further enriched by the herbal nuances of rosemary and basil, which lend a clean, invigorating quality. Citrusy hints of citron, mandarin, and orange enhance the composition with their sweet and tangy brightness, setting a lively and invigorating tone.
As the scent evolves, the heart notes unfold into a complex, woody floral bouquet. Italian geranium offers a green, slightly spicy character that intertwines with the earthy richness of patchouli, adding a depth of character. Cedar provides a warm, resinous woodiness that complements the heart’s florals, including the sophisticated, powdery essence of Italian orris.
Grasse jasmine and rose contribute their classic, opulent floral tones, while carnation adds a spicy, slightly clove-like nuance. Sandalwood introduces a creamy, smooth richness that blends seamlessly with the other elements, rounding out the heart with a balanced, elegant depth.
The base notes of Cravache reveal a warm and inviting finish. Bourbon vetiver delivers a robust, earthy smokiness, underscoring the fragrance's leather facets. Oakmoss provides a mossy, forest floor richness that enhances the chypre character.
Russian leather imparts a luxurious, refined quality with its deep, rich aroma, while tonka and vanilla introduce a sweet, slightly nutty warmth that adds depth and comfort. Tibetan musk and amber contribute a sensual, powdery warmth, while benzoin adds a subtle, resinous sweetness, completing the fragrance with a sophisticated, lasting impression.
Bottles:
Fate of the Fragrance:
The fragrance Cravache by Robert Piguet was discontinued at an unspecified date, marking the end of a notable chapter in the perfume's history.
In 1960, Jacqueline Cochran took on the role of distributor for Robert Piguet perfumes in the United States. During her tenure, the brand’s products were marked with the "Robert Piguet Parfums" name, a designation that continued until around 1982. This period was characterized by a focus on maintaining the brand's prestigious image in the American market.
From 1982 to 1995, ownership of Robert Piguet fragrances transitioned to Alfin, a company associated with Irwin Alfin and Adrien Arpel, Inc. In 1985, Alfin established Orinter Geneva Switzerland, a subdivision specifically tasked with managing the Parfums Robert Piguet portfolio. This division held exclusive worldwide manufacturing, distribution, and licensing rights for several notable fragrances, including Fracas, Bandit, Cravache, Baghari, and Musk Blanc. During this time, Alfin also spearheaded the mass marketing of Robert Piguet’s popular scents, aiming to broaden their reach and appeal.
1990 Version:
In 1990, Cravache was reformulated and relaunched by Alfin, Inc. Unfortunately, this new version was met with criticism and is widely regarded as inferior to the original by online reviewers. The same year, the company introduced Cravache Femme, an iteration aimed at the female market. Despite the brand’s efforts to rejuvenate Cravache, the reformulated fragrance did not achieve the same acclaim as its predecessor.
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: lemon
- Middle notes: lavender
- Base notes: oakmoss, vetiver and patchouli
Scent Profile:
Cravache opens with the invigorating and zesty burst of lemon, its bright citrus essence immediately captivating the senses. The lemon note is sharp and tangy, creating a refreshing introduction that feels both crisp and clean, like a splash of sunshine on a brisk morning.
As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals a soothing, herbaceous layer of lavender. The lavender note envelops you in its calming, floral warmth, offering a subtle contrast to the initial citrus burst. This lavender is fresh and aromatic, evoking images of a serene countryside field where the air is filled with the gentle scent of blooming lavender flowers swaying in a soft breeze.
The base notes of Cravache bring a profound depth to the fragrance, combining the earthy richness of oakmoss with the smoky, woody undertones of vetiver. Oakmoss imparts a classic, green, and slightly leathery aroma, grounding the scent with its natural, forest-like quality.
Vetiver adds a sophisticated layer with its deep, woody, and slightly smoky facets, enhancing the fragrance's complexity and longevity. Patchouli further enriches the base with its warm, spicy, and slightly sweet characteristics, contributing a subtle, exotic depth that lingers on the skin.
Together, these ingredients create a harmonious composition that is both invigorating and enduring, capturing the essence of a sophisticated, woody fragrance for men.
Bottles:
In 1995, Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics, Ltd. (FF&C) acquired the Robert Piguet brand, marking a pivotal moment in its history. Under FF&C’s stewardship, the brand saw a revival of its cherished classic fragrances alongside the introduction of new creations. This revitalization aimed to honor the legacy of Robert Piguet while adapting to contemporary tastes.
2007 Version:
Among the revitalized classics was Cravache, which underwent a significant transformation in 2007. Reformulated by the renowned perfumer Aurelien Guichard, this relaunch sought to bring the fragrance closer to its original essence while incorporating modern sensibilities. The new version of Cravache reflects a sophisticated balance between tradition and innovation, resonating with both long-time admirers and new audiences. Today, this iteration of Cravache is available on the Robert Piguet Parfums website, continuing to captivate with its refined and enduring allure.
From Robert Piguet:
"An aromatic infusion of citrus and woods, Cravache embodies Robert Piguet's sense of refined sophistication and sensitivity to quality."
Fragrance Composition:
So what does the reformulation smell like? It is classified as a woody chypre fragrance for men.
- Top notes: mandarin orange, petitgrain and lemon
- Middle notes: lavender, clary sage and nutmeg
- Base notes: patchouli, vetiver and tree moss
Scent Profile:
Cravache unfolds with a vibrant introduction, where the bright citrus notes of mandarin orange, petitgrain, and lemon dance harmoniously. Imagine the crispness of mandarin orange, its zesty sweetness bursting with a refreshing tang that invigorates the senses.
Petitgrain, with its green, slightly woody aroma, adds a nuanced complexity, evoking the scent of sun-drenched orange leaves. Lemon interjects with its sharp, clean brightness, cutting through with a citrusy clarity that sharpens and invigorates the olfactory experience.
As Cravache evolves, it transitions into a sophisticated heart composed of lavender, clary sage, and nutmeg. Lavender offers a soothing floral note with hints of herbal freshness, conjuring images of sunlit fields and the calming influence of its aromatic flowers.
Clary sage introduces a rich, herbaceous layer with a subtly earthy and musky undertone, reminiscent of a lush, fragrant garden in full bloom. Nutmeg imparts a warm, spicy sweetness that evokes the cozy comfort of autumn spices, adding depth and intrigue to the fragrance.
In its base, Cravache settles into a classic woody chypre foundation. Patchouli emerges with its deep, earthy aroma, enveloping the senses in a robust, aromatic richness that grounds the fragrance. Vetiver adds an additional layer of sophistication with its smoky, woody essence, conjuring images of ancient forests and rugged landscapes.
Tree moss completes the composition with its rich, earthy quality, reminiscent of damp woodland floors and adding a subtle, natural complexity to the scent. Together, these base notes form a resonant, enduring finish that lingers with a refined, masculine elegance.
No comments:
Post a Comment